Right around 5pm each night my Belgian grandmother always says ‘It's time for a little apero.’
Apero is a shortened version of ‘aperitif’ in the French language. She means it’s time for a little drink that signals meal time is not far away.
My father, almost ceremoniously, will drink one of those little bottles of Underberg after a large meal, and always makes the same joke: ‘this stuff helps me digest so quickly that I’ll want to order a pizza in about 15min’
Alcohol itself is a great aperitif, as it causes blood vessels to relax and expand, signaling the body to ‘get ready’ for what food is to come. Culturally, it signals to society that work time is done, it’s time to take a break, relax and eat some food. Europeans have got this down, drinking Aperitifs like vermouths or sherry before dinner and bitter liqueurs like amari after dinner.
Some fall into both categories and are consumed before or after meals, like Aperol or Campari, because they contain ingredients that aid in digestion, but spirits that are too bitter can be rough on an empty stomach so I typically save those for after the big meal.
Before I feast I like a nice chilled vermouth, like Contratto Rosso or Carpano Bianco or a cocktail that is vermouth heavy. One of my favorites is a Martinez made with the more traditional specs of 2 parts sweet vermouth to 1 part old tom gin. A Negroni, containing bitter orange tasting Campari and sweet vermouth, is one of my favorite pre dinner cocktails.
A black negroni works well after dinner, which is when I sub out the campari for another amaro that is a bit more bitter like Cynar, a robust and bitter digestif made with artichoke.
The more intense a digestif’s flavor is the better it actually works for digestion, nothing beats an intense Fernet amaro like Fernet Branca or Contratto Fernet, its bittering agents and menthol really help, just when you think you’re too full to move. Or try a Hanky Panky cocktail after dinner which has gin, sweet vermouth, and fernet.
Hanky Panky
(C. 1898, Ada Coleman @ The Savoy, London)
1¾ oz Barr Hill Gin
¾ oz Punt E Mes
¼ oz Fernet Branca
Add ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice. Stir until very cold and strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with an orange twist.
Martinez Cocktail
2 oz Sweet Vermouth
1 oz Barr Hill Tom Cat Gin
1 Tsp Maraschino Liqueur
1 Dash Bokers Bitters
Add ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice. Stir until very cold and strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with an orange twist.
Negroni
Negroni
1 oz Barr Hill Gin
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
1 oz Campari (For a black negroni variation, swap Campari for Cynar)
Add ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice. Stir until very cold and strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice. Garnish with an orange twist
“When using sweet vermouth in an after dinner cocktail, try using one of the more bitter ones out there like Punt E Mes.“
— Sam Nelis, Head Bartender at Barr Hill Gin distillery
Sam Nelis is Beverage Director at Vermont’s Caledonia Spirits, famed for crafting Barr Hill Gin, Barr Hill Tom Cat Gin and Barr Hill Vodka. In addition to curating the cocktail program, Sam’s daily role includes overseeing national events and activations, cultivating relationships with local vendors and farmers, staff education, and supporting the development of new products at the distillery.
