Even though I live in Kentucky, where almost three bourbon barrels are aging per resident, I have always enjoyed an occasional dram of scotch.
A few summers ago, when I attended a friend’s graduation from the University of Edinburgh, I took the opportunity to explore scotch. First observation: In Scotland, or any corner of Great Britain, do not order “scotch.” Order “whisky.” (No “e,” of course.)
It was with that vital information that I returned to Scotland in November to further my whisky education while visiting several distilleries. As someone who has visited scores of American whiskey distilleries, both in and out of Kentucky, I was intrigued by some notable differences in the Scottish distilling culture.
Barrels
Unlike corn-based bourbon, which is mashed with flavoring grains like rye and wheat plus malted barley, most of the whisky produced in Scotland only uses malted barley. Of course, I knew this and that most distilleries aged their whisky in ex-bourbon or used sherry barrels. However, tour guides emphasize the importance of barrels more than in America, which is more focused on distillation and fermentation. For example, at Glengoyne Distillery outside of Glasgow, there is an entire room dedicated to the explanation of flavor differences that result from aging in American and European oak, in ex-bourbon and -ex-sherry barrels, and barrels of different sizes from 53-gallon bourbon barrels to 132-gallon sherry butt and an array of barrel sizes in between.
Distillery Sizes
Being used to behemoths such as Beam, Buffalo Trace, and Heaven Hill, it was a study in contrast to see that many distilleries with large global footprints are relatively small. Oban appears on retail shelves and restaurant lists commonly, but the urban distillery in the coastal Highlands town of the same name is one of the smallest in Scotland. Many distilleries in remote parts of the countryside (I was mainly in Speyside) were not much more extensive. Notable exceptions: Two of Speyside’s best-known producers, Glenfiddich and Macallan, are built on a larger scale and have facilities echoing the large legacy distilleries of Kentucky.
Warehouses
Unlike the massive warehouses in Kentucky, few massive rick houses dot the dramatic Highlands and Speyside landscapes. Most are low structures, with barrels stored only three tiers high.
Whisky Age
While many distilleries alluded to “the angels’ share,” those Scottish angels are parched compared to their Kentucky counterparts. A Scottish warehouse would never have temperatures topping 100 degrees F as the seven and eight-story Kentucky ones can on their top floors in summer. I had the pleasure of sampling whiskies that were 34 and even 43 years old. Any barrel of whiskey held that long in the U.S., probably even in the Pacific Northwest, would be bone-dry. (Unless, perhaps, it was aged in a cave.)
"In Scotland, or any corner of Great Britain, do not order “scotch.” Order “whisky.” "
— Susan Reigler
Ultimately, this veteran Kentucky bourbon scribe thoroughly enjoyed exploring Scottish whisky, experiencing flavor profiles from floral to peaty. My most memorable dram had no age statement. It was a smoky, spicy Laphroaig Quarter Cask paired with a bracingly briny, frighteningly fresh serving of Cumbrae oysters on the half shell harvested from the Firth of Clyde. The mingling produced a flavor detonation. Sláinte!
Former restaurant critic and beverage columnist for the Louisville Courier-Journal, Susan is bourbon columnist for Food & Dining and Covey Rise magazines and also writes for Bourbon+, LEO Weekly, and American Whiskey (tasting notes and ratings). Susan has authored or co-authored six books including Kentucky Bourbon Country: The Essential Travel Guide, The Kentucky Bourbon Cocktail Book, The Bourbon Tasting Notebook, and The American Whiskey Tasting Notebook, and Which Fork Do I Use with My Bourbon? – Setting the Table for Tastings, Food Pairings, Dinner, and Cocktail Parties. Susan is a member of the Order of the Writ, former president of both the Bourbon Women Association and the Kentucky chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International, an organization of women culinary professionals.
